We rarely recommend plastic "barriers" for bamboo plantings. We will agree to this method only when the client feels that plastic is their only option. To see our discussion of plastic "barriers", please CLICK HERE.

We have developed a "pot in pot" system of containment which works very well. Ask us if this system will work for your installation.

We also recommend metal water troughs, concrete barriers, or planters built either above ground or partially submerged. The berm method is one of the easiest and effective methods of containment.

If you do decide to use a plastic "barrier" you must have a plan to maintain the grove. The maintenance is not too much different than if you had no plastic at all. However, many people decide to use the plastic and we recommend the following.

One is to dig around the grove, at least once every year, in the late fall or winter, and prune the rhizomes back to the grove. In order to accomplish this successfully, the plastic must be installed at least 2 feet from the plantings.

There are many issues with containing bamboo. The largest issue is the containment method itself. Bamboo plants grow rhizomes horizontally, under the ground, at the same speed as they grow shoots above ground. These rhizomes can grow at any angle from the grove. When they encounter a barrier of any kind they stop, split, and go both directions, usually following the side of the barrier. Again, here is an in depth discussion: CLICK HERE.

Another issue is that the containment material must extend above the ground. This causes three problems, one is that people tending the bamboo grove step on the plastic and it tears. Even fine tears can begin to weaken the containment.

Another issue is that the rhizomes, roots, and emerging culms tend to push up the ground in the containment, causing stress on the plastic edges. The third issue is that it is just unsightly to have a thin plastic sheet sticking up in the garden.  If plastic is used a garden edging should be installed, stapled or glued to the top of the plastic sheet to prevent tearing.

Seattle Bamboo suggests many containment systems, usually a combination of materials that create a strong and creative edging. This could be concrete, buried ceramic pots, a buried metal planter, or treated wood that is firmly joined together to keep the rhizomes from escaping. The very best containment, however, is yearly digging around the circumference of the grove.

Another issue is that rhizomes are going to "crowd" the containment. It is best to trim these back and keep them away from the barrier You must be very careful not to create a breech in the barrier when you trim.

Another important issue is that you choose the right bamboo in Seattle, one that is not too aggressive or invasive. The size factor plays a part in containment as well, bamboos such as Phyllostachys rubromarginata may be hard to maintain in a containment system that is less than 500 square feet. Phyllostachys nigra is a bit easier to maintain in a smaller containment, just as examples.

To contain a running bamboo at planting time or to contain a grove already in your garden, dig a trench completely around the clump’s intended limit. Cut off any unwanted rhizomes on plants that have already spread too far. The roots of bamboo plants do not extend deeper than about 2 feet, so a 3-foot-deep trench will suffice. Then you must confine the bamboo with a barrier.

A berm method is a great choice and we can consult and discuss this option when we look at your garden area. The berm should be 18" to 20" high and the bamboo planted on the top of the berm. The height of the berm is a natural containment for the plants and allows you to "harvest" rhizomes that can be potted and sold, given away, or replanted elsewhere.